Swat
The Swat river rises in the
lofty mountain ranges bordering Chitral. The upper portion of its valley and
the drainage area of its affluents as far down as the village of Ain, near
Baranial, is known by the general term of Swat Kohistan.
Frim the village of Ain commences
Swat proper. The upper portion from there down to the Landakai spur, 5 miles
above Chakdara, is known as Bar [Upper] Swat, whil the lower portion from
Landakai downwards as far as the village of Kalangai is called Kus [Lower]
Swat. The total length of the Swat river from its source to its junction with
the Panjkora is, roughly speaking, some 130 miles. In Swat should also be
included the Talash valley, as until recent times it was always considered part
of Swat. It is now under the Nawab of Dir. The valley joins the Panjkora river
about 4 miles below the junction of the Panjkora and Rud rivers. The average
width of the valley of Swat proper,i.e..from Ain to Kalangai, a length of some
70 miles, is about 12 miles from crest to crest of its watershed, and comprises
a continuous seroes of tracts of rich alluvial lands of varying extent along
the river banks. The river is fed by glaciers and snow, and during the summer
months swells to considerable volume. During the winter months it shrinks to a
small size and in midwinter is fordable almost everywhere. It begins to rise
about the middle of April and soon becomes unfordable. It begins to fall again
in the middle of September.
There upper valleys of Swat,
especially in Swat Kohistan, contain extensive forests of deodar. Upper and
Lower Swat are both extensively cultivated. The land irrigated by the Swat
river and its affluent streams are devoted to the cultivation of rice, the
quality of which in certain localities is celebrated. The higher land bear rich
rain crops of wheat or barley in the spring and maize in the autumn.
The inhabitants of Swat Kohistan
and Garwis, who are non-Pathan races of whom little is yet known. They would
appear to be remnants of the races who, prior to the invasion of Swat by
Yusafzai Pathan in the sixteenth century, occupied both Lower and Upper Swat.
They are practically independent, but pay at irregular intervals a small nominal
tribute to the Kushwakht ruling family in Yasin and Mastuj.
Upper and Lower Swat are now
inhabited by the Akozai Yusafzai. Those on the right bank have been placed by
us under the control of the Nawab of Dir, to whom they pay tribute. Those on
the left bank pay no regular tribute to any one.
Commencing on the left bank and
working upwards, the sub-clans of the Akozai Yusafzai are in the following
order; In Lower Swat, the Ranizai and Khan Khel; in Upper Swat the Kuz-Sulizai,
a generic name for the Aba Khel and Musa Khel, the Babauzai, and Bar-Sulizai,
another generi term including the Matorizai, Azzi Khel and Jinki Khel. All of
these, exept theRanizai, are known collectively as the Baezai. Crossing over to
the right bank and working downwards the sub-clans are; the Shamizai, Sebujni,
Nikbi Khel, Shamozai; and in Lower Swat the Adinzai, Abazai and Khadakzai. All
of these, except the two last named, are known collectively as the Khwazaozai.
The whole valley is well
populated. The upper portion, i.e.. Swat Kohistan , is especially so, and the
Torwals and Garhwis are said to number some 20,ooo. The population of Swat
proper. Upper and Lower, may roughly be estimated at 150,000 persons, of whom
about 30,000 to 40,000 are fighting men.
The valley abounds in village ,
many of considerable size. The principal village of Lower Swat are Thana and
Alladand; of Upper Swat, Mingaora,
Charbagh and Mingaora. Saido, in Upper Swat, as the burial place of the Akhund
of Swat, is a place of importance and will be referred to here-after.
